Pagan themes abound at the Carnival of Viareggio

VIAREGGIO, Italy – Carnevale is a burst of mayhem and color that exorcises the mid-winter blues. Arguably, the most famous carnival event is in Venice. Still, the Viareggio Carnivale is not far behind and this year shone very brightly with sophisticated Pagan-themed floats, parades, and masquerade celebrations.

Carnival is one of the festivals of obvious pagan origin that was so extensively celebrated and cherished by communities that the Catholic church quickly co-opted the tradition during the Christianization of Europe.

The term “Carnival” originates in the medieval Latin carnem levare or carnelevarium, which means the removal or abstaining from meat. After Christianization, Carnival heralded the 40-day period of austerity of Lent that begins on Ash Wednesday. During Lent, Roman Catholics and other Christian denominations begin a period of austere reflection that might include fasting and abstinence from certain foods and luxuries in remembrance of Jesus Christ’s fasting in the wilderness and the temptations thrown upon him by Satan before beginning his public ministry.

The earliest documented Carnival in Venice was in 1296 CE.  The Venetian Senate released a proclamation announcing a public festival the day before the start of Lent.  Celebrations began earlier in remembrance of a military victory of the Venetian Republic over the Patriarch of Aquileia in 1162 in an attempt to subjugate Venice under the Holy Roman Empire.

But the origins of Carnival are far older. It traces its origins to earlier celebrations such as the Greek Dionysia (the Anthesteria), Roman Lupercalia, and Roman Saturnalia. Germanic tribes also celebrated the return of spring and fertility during the same time, as attested by Tacitus in 98 CE in his book Germania (or On the Origin and Situation of the Germans).  Earlier this week, our colleague Elyse Wells described the Greek Apokries, their origins, and their modern celebrations.

Like in New Orleans, in Italy Carnival celebrations reach their peak between Fat Thursday and Fat Tuesday (also called Shrove Tuesday and Mardi Gras). This year, Venice’s Carnival returned after a COVID hiatus to its former splendor.

 

About an hour west of Firenze on the Tuscan coast, Viareggio’s carnival began in 1873 CE, much later than other celebrant cities like Venice. But it will not be outdone.

With giant floats made only of paper-mâché enlivened by animatronics and exceptional costumed participants in a parade that included reliably Pagan themes and social protests, Viareggio took the spotlight.

Baron Samedi made an entrance in the Viareggio carnival with Santa Muerte slightly behind.

Baron Samedi and Santa Muerte float via Carnevale di Viareggio

 

Another float about malocchio or the evil eye, portrayed a witch covered in eye-shaped nazar amulets and tarot cards with magical hand symbols and good luck charms like the red chili peppers commonly found in Naples that symbolize victory over enemies.

 

The Viareggio carnival closed with the entry of Bacchus, the god of wine and giver of ecstasy.  The huge float was animated with Bacchus reacting to the crowd and the grapes entering the tub for stomping in juice.

 

Bacchus float via Carnevale di Viareggio

 

Unfortunately, Carnival celebrations are also becoming expensive for smaller communities.

In Italy, Pro Loco (Latin for “in favor of the place”) are non-profit, grass-roots organizations that seek to enhance economic opportunity in a town or region.  They often promote local tourism.

One Pro Loco in Avenza,  about 15 miles north of Viareggio, organizes the Carnival festivities and submitted two proposals: a “profane” Carnival and a medieval Carnival.  But the town found them just too expensive given their circumstances this year.  The mayor of Avenza, Serena Arrighi, said that funding obligations made the celebration impossible to organize.

Not all Carnival celebrations happen before Lent. Cuba, Puerto Rico, the Bahamas, and St. Vincent and the Grenadines have a celebration in June. Barbados, Toronto, and Notting Hill, London will celebrate in August. Lagos and Nigeria will celebrate in December.

Carnival and its Pagan origins have been spread throughout the world.  We leave you with some Carnival celebrations the world over. Happy Spring!


Port of Spain, Trinidad & Tobago


Río de Janeiro, Brasil


Oruro, Bolivia


Santa Cruz de Tenerife, España

 

Editorial note: Mardi Gras celebrations in New Orleans can be viewed live on the EarthCam network and NOLA.com YouTube Channel


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