Column: All Cruelty Springs from Weakness

I have a thing for ice wine, like a serious thing. When I first tasted it, I was told the amazing story of its production. The grapes are allowed to freeze on the vine, but it is the water that freezes, not the sugars or the flavor compounds in the grapes. On the day before harvesting, the production equipment is allowed to sit in the icy air with all windows opened until everything gets as cold as possible; all processing happens at or below freezing. Crushing the grapes separates the ice from the liquid, so what is left is a sweet, thick essence that will be used for fermentation.