Capturing the Living Gods
The Independent Weekly profiles a new book by Claire Garoutte and Anneke Wambaugh entitled “Crossing the Water: A Photographic Path to the Afro-Cuban Spirit World”. The two photographer’s “visual ethnography” follows Santiago Castaneda Vera, a veteran practitioner of several strains of African diasporic religion, through several rites and ceremonies.

Yemaya’s throne.
“Castaneda’s way of combining the traditions is idiosyncratic and based on his personal gifts: Born into a religious family in rural Santiago, he started communicating with the dead at age 8, leading to his initiation in Palo Monte. At age 22, he became a santero as well. A devotee of Yemaya, maternal Santeria goddess of fluid elements, Castaneda takes on an androgynous character in some of the photos, and in others dominates the flock as belligerent male spirit Sarabanda. Alongside spiritual practice, he has worked various day jobs throughout his life, and since retiring at age 60, lives solely from his religious activities.”
Unlike similar books of this nature, “Crossing the Water” is an insiders view of these religious traditions. Both authors are “children” (initiates) into Castaneda’s religious house, and actively participated in the set-up and performance of ritual. While this approach allows for a deeper understanding of the context and meaning of the rites and rituals performed, some, like Yoruba Orisa singer Amma McKen, wonder if this “insider” tone may hinder the work from finding an audience beyond fellow practitioners.
“As to whether this level of access by those interested in documenting the religion is unusual, Amma McKen, an oricha priestess of 28 years residing in Brooklyn, says, “It has been done, but it’s not done frequently. I think [the book] will be really well received by practitioners if nothing else.” McKen, like Castaneda, is a devotee of Yemaya.”
But while the “level of access” might turn off some curious readers, the mixture of academic rigor, creativity, and real devotion to the subject matter could make “Crossing the Water” a must-have for anyone interested in the practice of African diasporic religion in Cuba (and elsewhere). For more photos from the book, check out this visual tour.
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